Converting

Written by Scarab

What is converting?

Converting a model can mean anything from just re-positioning a limb or adding a few extra details to extensive remodeling. The most satisfying aspect of converting is that your model becomes unique, rather than just one of many identical ones. Converting can also allow you to produce convincing models to represent army list entries, such as Storm Guardians, that Games Workshop does not yet make. Individual Q&A?s about converting some of the more common of these models follow.

There are a wide variety of techniques involved in converting. Plastic figures are the easiest to convert, both because there is a wide range of parts and because they are simpler to cut and assemble. Converting plastic vehicles usually requires at least a small collection of spare parts (usually referred to as 'bits'), and access to plastic card (see below). Metal models are perhaps more difficult to work with, because the pewter used by GW is less easily re-shaped, and larger parts need to be pinned (see above) when assembling the model.

How can I get started converting?

Probably the most basic conversions are weapon swaps. For example, you may want your commander to have a set wargear that is not sold by Games Workshop. Weapon swaps are easier if the weapon is only attached at the hand of the model. If the weapon is fused to the body of the model, you may want to start with another model. The method for swapping weapons is simple; use a knife or clippers (be careful!) to remove the old weapon from the model and then glue the new one in its place. Some filing and filling with putty may be required to get a good fit. If the weapon sticks out from the model, consider pinning it for strength.

What is plastic card and where do I get it?

Plastic card, also known as sheet styrene, is manufactured specifically for modelers in a variety of thicknesses. You can also obtain plastic tubing, strips and girders of various widths. The most widely available brands of plastic card are Evergreen and Tamiya.

How do I use plastic card?

As with all aspects of modeling, care and patience are essential. Thinner card is easily cut using a steel ruler and a sharp knife (be careful and cut away from you!). Draw the shape in pencil before cutting it out - it's best to cut down onto a wooden board. Thicker card can be cut by scoring and snapping - draw out the shape, score a deep line along the edges, then carefully bend the sheet of plastic where you've scored it. It should snap cleanly along the scored line (putting it in the freezer for a while makes it more brittle and easier to snap). Clean up the edge by sanding it. Plastic card is assembled using polystyrene cement, just like a plastic kit.

What materials can I use for Scratchbuilding?

Check out the excellent article The A-Z of Scratchbuilding for dozens of ideas on regular household items that are great for miniature conversions and scratchbuilding (and don't forget to add any ideas of your own to the article!).

How can I make Storm Guardians?

The easiest option is to convert a box of Guardian Defenders. Instead of using the normal Defender arms, order Eldar close combat sprues from Games Workshop mail order and use the arms from these instead. Alternatively, you can use the arms from the Defenders, remove the shuriken catapults, and add the weapons from the close combat sprue. If you can?t get the sprue, you may need to remove the needed weapons from aspect warriors and place them on the Defender arms, which can be expensive.

How can I make a scratchbuilt Battlewagon?

Although the Orks finally have an official Battlewagon model available from Games Workshop, many players still prefer the 'Orky' look of a scratchbuilt model. Before you start, decide what the theme of your Battlewagon is i.e. whether it's to be a captured Imperial vehicle or something the Orks have built from scratch. The Land Raider itself is an ideal basis for a Battlewagon based on a captured vehicle - it's a simple matter to remove the roof and 'Orkify' it (see below). Alternatively, for a scratch-built Battlewagon, have a look at 1:35 scale plastic military kits. Go for something with a relatively simple basic shape (because it will look as though it was designed by Orks), and which looks as though it can be modified to carry a lot of Orks. The later WWII German Panzers are very good - the Tiger and Sturmtiger are available from several manufacturers. Large half-tracks are also an excellent basis - again, the German types are best.

Start with the basic chassis. Leave off most of the smaller details, and build up a superstructure using plastic card and/or pieces of other models. Try and keep a basic design in mind, or it won't look like anything. Add Orky weapons and other bits (such as armor plates, glyphs and trophies).

One important thing to bear in mind when using other kits to build WH40k vehicles - make sure the details are consistent with other Games Workshop models, or it will look out of place next to your other models. Remember that 1:35 scale hatches, handles and ladders are usually too small for Warhammer 40k figures, and should be replaced with chunkier ones. It's also a good idea to remove very fine details (such as rivets) because they will look out of scale.

How can I make Extra Armor?

Extra Armor is considered an almost essential upgrade for Rhinos and other Imperial transports. Up until recently, however, it hasn't been available in kit form, and there hasn't been much guidance on what it's supposed to look like. Real military vehicles often receive armor upgrades, and these can take the form of large slabs of armor plate that cover the whole of the original armor, smaller plates that just cover important areas, or more exotic varieties like 'reactive' armor (which looks like rows of small hollow boxes) and 'spaced' armor (which consists of thin plates that are attached away from the vehicle itself). It's a good idea to have a look at a book on armor to get some idea of how it looks, rather than just randomly attaching things to your model. With the introduction of the new Rhino kit, Forgeworld has begun to produce a range of extra armor pieces. They are, however quite expensive, and not to everyone's taste.

The most straightforward way of modeling Extra Armor is to use plastic card. Attach it when you've completed the basic assembly. It looks best if it follows the general shape of the armor you're attaching it to, but is slightly smaller. Alternatively, make lots of smaller plates. The armor would always be attached to the front, and probably on the sides as well. Make sure it doesn't cover important features like engine vents and hatches! You might like the roughen up the edge, by cutting small chunks out of it, to show it's an improvised modification, or you might want it to be very smooth. Add some bolts or rivets to show how it's been attached (cut them off an old kit, or use the boltheads from Citadel's plastic tank traps), and maybe add other detail (such as an Imperial eagle) so it blends in better with the rest of the model.

You can also make Extra Armor using the casting techniques described in the casting section.