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Dakka Modeling FAQ: Green Stuff

Green Stuff

Written by Mastiff

What is greenstuff?

Also known as Kneadatite®, greenstuff is a two-part epoxy putty that comes in the form of a blue and yellow tape. When the two halves are kneaded together, they produce a strong, green putty that cures at room temperature and has a working life of one and a half to two hours. You can also choose to use more blue curing agent for faster, harder curing understructures, or more of the yellow base for slower, softer curing putty ideal for detail work. Please note that in North America, Games Workshop has switched to a blue and white tape.


How do I speed up/slow down the curing time?

Temperature will affect the curing (drying) time. Heat will cure it faster. You can hold a piece under a lamp to speed up the drying time. Beware of too much heat, which may cause the greenstuff to run. On the other hand, you can store mixed, unused putty in the freezer to prevent it from curing for an extra hour or so.


How do I prepare a miniature for adding greenstuff?

Most additions will need some sort of under support. A new limb should have a wire understructure pinned to the rest of the miniature, or the putty will be too flexible to hold its shape. More solid shapes such as a head should first have a small blob of putty pinned in place. Once it dries, softer putty can be added to add features and details.


What other alternatives are there to greenstuff?

Milliput is a cheaper alternative to greenstuff, but has a rougher finish. It is available in five varieties but Silver-Grey and Superfine-White seem to be generally considered to be best suited to modeling. It's ideal for building up large areas of putty and dries much harder than greenstuff. The two can also be mixed together to blend the properties. Milliput can also be sanded when dry, for a smoother finish. Milliput, when fully cured responds very well to carving with blades or rotary tools. Magicsculpt is another alternative similar to Milliput.

The blue putty sold in North America is slightly stiffer than the greenstuff when it dries. Otherwise they're very similar. The same company that produces Kneadatite also makes brownstuff, which is ideal for sharp, straight edges.

Sculpy is a soft clay that holds detail well, and will not dry until baked in an oven.


What tools will I need?

Some tools can be found around the house, such as toothpicks, knives or small screwdrivers. Small manicure sets can be priceless. Others can be found at art supply shops, particularly in the sculpting section. Used dentists tools are another great option if you can work out a deal with your local dentist.

  • Warm water: This is the most important tool. If the other tools are not kept moist, they will stick to the putty and destroy the surface. Greenstuff would much rather stick to a metal tool than your model. Your fingers should also be kept moist, to prevent fingerprints from marring the surface. Oil-based lubricants can also be used, such as Vaseline ® petrolatum jelly or vegetable oil, but be sure to clean it off when the putty is dry or new pieces won't stick to it. You can run older greenstuff under warm water while mixing the tape together to help it soften and blend better.

  • A knife: For cutting fresh or cured putty.

  • A flat bladed tool: For flattening and sculpting. Small knife blades or hobby screwdrivers can work.

  • A rounded burnishing tool: You can find these at pottery supply stores. They have a small metal ball at one end, and can be used to rub areas that are partially cured for a smoother "burnished" finish.

  • A thin punching tool: Such as an awl or round toothpick for creating small holes.

  • Wire tool: Basically a wooden handle with a stiff metal loop at the end, that can be used to cut wide, even grooves in sculpting material. A wire tool is ideal for making flowing robes, with lots of practice.

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